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Archive for March, 2012


There’s one place I’ve always wanted to visit on St. Patrick’s Day. Not because I expect to find a jolly little leapricon with a bountiful pot of gold, but because it`s the closest you can get to Ireland right here in Newfoundland and Labrador. The place is Tilting on Fogo Island.

Tilting is a Provincial Heritage District and a National Historic Site of Canada. It`s rich in Irish heritage and residents even speak with an Irish accent. Ironically, Tilting was first settled by the French in the late 1600`s before becoming exclusively Irish in 1752 when it welcomed its first settlers from Ireland.

It`s a small little picturesque community which wraps around a sheltered harbour that juts out into the North Atlantic. It`s filled with family fishing stages, salt box houses, grassy meadows enclosed with intertwining alder fences, and plenty of pride and history.

Several  attractions are located in Tilting including the Lane House, which is the oldest home in the community. Following a nearby trail leading from the Lane House is a cemetery that`s believed to be the oldest Irish Catholic Cemetery in Newfoundland. Headstones here date back to the 1700s and contain birth places such as Cork, Tipperary, Waterford and Limerick.

It`s that rich Irish history that gets the residents of Tilting celebrating each March 17. It all begins with the annual mass for St. Patrick and the placement of his statue outside the church. Afterwards, the community hosts a concert where they sing Irish tunes, dance, and perform skits and recitations.

And with so much Irish pride surrounding Tiling, what better place in Newfoundland and Labrador than here to celebrate the green holiday? Who knows, perhaps next year I just might see you there.

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Newfoundland and Labradorians are known for their heaping food servings and boy did we eat this past weekend when the Newfoundland and Labrador James Beard Culinary Team descended on Grand Falls-Windsor for the first-ever Mid-Winter Bivver, a festival focused on snowmobiling and high-end culinary.

Mini turkey sliders and salt cod croquettes

The six member culinary team set the bar for the weekend’s meals when they laid out a tremendous spread at the opening ceremonies in Botwood. Steaming salt cod croquettes with chipotle mayonnaise, mini turkey sliders which resembled pulled pork burgers, decadent bacon wrapped scallops with dill aioli, soul-warming moose stew, stringy farmer’s dairy cheese fondue, and a station where Executive Chef Roary Macpherson carved a roast of beef and topped it high on dollar rolls topped with assorted mustards. Thank goodness we got to work it all off as we walked across the parking lot between the flying boat museum and the antique snowmobile exhibit at the Botwood Heritage Park!

Saturday morning started bright and early with a breakfast for champions followed by a 154 km trail ride in and around Hodges Hills, just west of Grand Falls-Windsor. While the scenery was beautiful and the weather better than anyone could of ordered, it was the lunch stop at Rocky Brook Camps that had everyone owing and awing.

Chefs at Rocky Brook Camp

As snowmobilers pulled up to the rest shack along the trail, members of the culinary team were assembled with piping hot dishes that included barbequed moose burgers on brioche buns with onion and Mount Scio savory chutney, Newfoundland hasenpfeffer (rabbit) with spatzle, caribou lollipops with partridgeberry demi, hot chocolate cake with Newfoundland Screech sauce, and banana and chocolate bread pudding. The food was so delicious some people even packed an extra burger in their pocket which they proudly photographed high atop Hodges Hills later that day!

Amuse Bouche-Blueberry cured Bay D'Espoir trout

But it was the five course meal and wine pairing Saturday night that set this event apart from any other winter festival. As soon as the first course that consisted of Amuse Bouche – Blueberry cured Bay D’Espoir trout on greens hit the table until the entree of your choice of honey and cumin spiced breast of duck or herb crusted sirloin steak was served, everyone was talking about the food.  Just recollecting the menu for purposes of writing this blog has my taste buds salivating!

All-in-all, it was a fantastic weekend filled with raving food and festivities, a few complaints from people who had eaten way too much, and all-hands wondering what the James Beard Culinary Team will be serving up next year.

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Cold. Exhilarating. Totally absurd. Perhaps that’s the best way to describe the polar dip I took in Appleton as part of the town’s annual Winterfest.

Many people have asked me how it felt to embrace winter and literally dive head first into the season. Others have simply asked why I would voluntarily take the icy leap. The reason, I must admit, is beyond me.

I had wanted to take part in the polar dip the moment I learned the town organized this unique event. Only really considering how neat it would be to say I`d done it, the act of actually doing the dip didn`t really cross my mind until the morning of. Thank goodness I wasn`t alone. Nine others had signed up to do the dip, including a 71-year-old who was all excited about taking the leap.

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Anges (right) was the oldest participant in the dip

Appleton is known for its community spirit and generous hospitality, which I was quickly shown upon arriving. It’s a big thing to dress the part when participating in the dip, and before I knew it, yours truly was sporting one-of-a-kind attire.

Getting my designer dress made

Once we were all dressed the part, it was down to the marina we trotted and into the heated trailer where we patiently, and anxiously, waited to be called to take our place at the starting point. It was at this stage the magnitude of what was about to happen sunk in.

After consulting with some two and three-time dippers, and observing the large crowd that had come to marvel at our bravery (or stupidity!), it was time to forget my fears and embrace the experience. We all eagerly lined up for a photo-op, turned towards the dark, ice-crusted river, and began to count…..”10, 9, 8.”

Getting ready to take the leap

With a burst of valour, mixed with a huge heaping of adrenaline, we all exploded forward in a mash of bodies, costumes and a strong urge to get it over with. The chilly water quickly engulfed us while screams from both participants and onlookers filled the air. It was at this point I seemingly relaxed, accepted my mission and dove in.

Surprisingly, the water was chilly but not intolerable. Having been told by a fellow participant that my feet would be the first thing to lose feeling, I swiftly exited the river to ensure I could still walk back to the heat of the trailer.

With cheers all around, we congratulated each other on a job well done, and, while still feeling invigorated, promised to return to do it all again next year.

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